Friday, April 12, 2013

Getting Your Anchor Up -- Safely

Or, Do as I say and not as I did!

Most people who know me know I have figured out a number of strategies to compensate for not having the strength of a 25-year-old linebacker in his prime along with the coordination of a cat burglar. Too bad I don’t always use those strategies …

Today is a Friday. A week ago Wednesday I had to put down the hook in the Manatee River. When it came time to pull it up … I couldn’t muscle it up. So what did I do? Did I use the strategy I had not only figured out but methodically tested, guaranteed to treat an old body gently?

Of course not.

I tried to force it up. And then I tried harder to force it up. After all, I’m only 67, and everyone knows women are stronger than men …. Wait … what?????

I’m the person who has told so many people about the nifty system I came up with for using snatch blocks to free your anchor easily. But did I do it that day? No … I hadn’t actually set the system up permanently, and it seemed like “too much trouble” if I could just pull the thing up.

Now, I already knew that those three words – “Too much trouble” – can cause chaos. Many people don’t reef when they should because it’s “too much trouble.” I didn’t just hear about an efficient reefing system – I had it installed on my boat. I’ve used it. It works.

But I hadn’t actually installed my alternate system for raising the anchor. I would have to stop and find the parts, and then put them on. It was too much trouble when all I had to do was pull a little harder.

Dumb, dumb, dumb.

Well, I’ll tell you what’s too much trouble: having to go back to the doctor because the nuclear-strength anti-inflammatory drug she put you on made your feet swell up like watermelons, first sign of a rare but dangerous side effect of that drug.

Setting your phone to go off at 2:30 AM to take your Prednisone – and eat something so it won’t cause an ulcer – is a bit of bother.

And I brought it on myself because I really banged up my left shoulder trying to force that anchor out on muscle. I couldn’t “drive up on it” little by little because the wind had kicked up to about 20 mph. I’d move the boat forward, but by the time I’d gotten to the anchor rode, the wind had pushed the boat back, and the rode was tight again. That’s a game of tag you never win if you’re on the boat by yourself, which I usually am if I’m just moving the boat from home port to BCYC.

So what is my really good plan for freeing a strongly-set anchor? My boat has a perforated aluminum toe rail. That means I can put these nifty things called “snatch blocks” anywhere on the toe rail. 


These blocks open on the side so you can thread a line through them very easily. You don’t have to start at the bitter end and feed it all through. Since I have 250 ft. of rode, a snatch block definitely makes this task simpler than installing a standard block. You only need to pull out enough rode to be able to grasp it in the cockpit. You lock off the rode on the cleat by your sheet winch, and then loosen it at the bow. Now you can drive up on the anchor, pulling the rode into the cockpit as you go. You’ll have to take that rode back to the bow when you’re done, but you’re unlikely to tear up your shoulder doing that.

I use two snatch blocks to guide the rode back to the cockpit. Then I just put the boat into forward with no forward throttle, which inches the boat up, and pull the rode into the cockpit. If that’s moving the boat too fast, I simply “goose” the engine by moving it between neutral and forward, and then I have complete control of the forward speed. There’s no need to steer; an anchored boat will swing into the wind. If she swings off to the side, just give her a couple of moments to center up. Bringing in the anchor this way, there’s no chance the rode can get wrapped around the propeller.  Then I lock it off at the bow, and THEN I can drive the boat forward over the anchor, free it, and pull the chain and anchor up pretty easily.

Now, my forward cleats are on this very sturdy toe rail, so I don’t worry about ripping out a cleat. If your cleat is mounted to fiberglass, put a good backing plate on it – and don’t delay doing that because it’s “too much trouble.” Ripping a cleat out – now that’s too much trouble!

So why didn’t I put the snatch blocks on when I finally had to admit that my imitation of a gorilla in its prime had failed and I wouldn’t be pulling it up? Simple – the “gorilla” had already made spaghetti out of her shoulder. I was in a lot of pain and needed help raising that anchor. So I called Boat US. They put a tow line on the front of my boat. As they towed my boat forward, I easily pulled the rode in (no strain on the rode). When the chain was vertical, I locked it off on the cleat, and they pulled me forward again. It took three tries, but the anchor finally popped loose. I only had about 7 ft of chain and the anchor to pull up then, and I managed to do that.

The doctor hopes to clear me for full activity by May 1. That’s nearly four weeks of limited use of my left arm – and I’m left handed. The upside is that I’m getting to know the medical staff at my new doctor’s office pretty well.

LESSON LEARNED: Be smart. The applied uses of the simple machines – wheels (includes blocks), levers (ex: hammer), and inclined planes (ex: wood splitting wedge and screws), are tools our ancestors used to move us out of the stone age and into the industrial revolution. We should be smart enough to use them to help us do things like pull up anchors.

I probably dodged a bit of a bullet here. I have full range of motion in that shoulder, and they don’t think the rotator cuff is compromised, but I was foolish.

Don’t you be foolish. I have twice bought a set of snatch blocks by getting to marine flea markets early. They’re out there, and they’re useful. They’re also very inexpensive at flea markets – I recently paid only $20 apiece for them. My shoulder was worth $40! New, they start at around $160. I’m going to put them permanently on the toe rail, with badly applied seizing wire (on purpose) so it will take wire snips to remove them (and have a backup set in case one of these older wonders breaks or "takes a walk" to someone else's boat).

On your boat, you may have to install a couple of pad eyes (with backing plate) if you aren’t lucky enough to have a perforated toe rail (put backing plates on all your deck hardware), but none of this is hard. And, on my boat, it works. I’ve done it.  Wish I’d installed it, oh, about 11 days ago …

Sorry I don’t have a picture of the actual system up yet, but I have to let that shoulder heal some more first. I’ll do it in a week or so.


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