One person, two
sails – how do you do that, exactly? Remember, this blog isn’t for highly
seasoned sailors who are looking for tricks to get every last tenth of a knot
out of their boat in a race. This is just basic sailing tips for newer sailors.
It may be that you
intend to never sail your boat by yourself. I have heard many newer sailors say
that – that they aren’t confident enough to sail by themselves. They “never”
single-hand.
At least, that’s
their plan, but reality sometimes has a way of messing up our plans. Suppose
your sailing companion sprains his ankle? What if he sprains his ankle, you’re
five hours from port and you’re low on fuel?
You really should
know how to manage the boat by yourself, which really means how one person can
control two sails.
Here’s the big tip:
the headsail does most of the work when you tack. This means that you can leave
the mainsail to its own devices while you handle the headsail. However, you
don’t want the boom swinging over whenever physics decides it’s time. So,
here’s what to do.
First of all, build
up some speed, sailing close to your no-go zone. If you can see the shore, spot
something that is at the starting edge of the no-go zone and something that is
where you expect the end of the no-go zone to be. In the graphic below, the fat
black arrow represents the wind direction, and the pink area is the “no go”
zone, where the boat is too close to the direction of the wind to sail. If you
stay in that area, the boat will slow dramatically, and eventually, fall off
back into the wind, or if it continues toward the direction of the wind, stop.
Bring the mainsail
in nearly to center and lock it off. Have your winch handle out and near what
will be the new working jib winch.
Have both port and
starboard sheets ready, one ready to be loosened and the other ready to be
tightened.
Turn the boat
through the no-go zone. Watch two things in particular: where the clew of the
headsail is, and where your estimated end of the no-go-zone is. Loosen the
previously working sheet completely, and be ready to pull the new working sheet
in.
As the clew swings
across the front of the boat and the sail begins to fill on the new tack, pull
in the new working sheet as efficiently as possible so you’re not pulling in a
heavily-loaded sheet.
Don't forget to end your turn! That's why you spotted the other side of the "no-go" zone. Lots of people have ended up going in a circle when trying this for the first time. No matter -- just do it again, and tell the guy with the sprained ankle to stop being a back-seat driver already!
Don't forget to end your turn! That's why you spotted the other side of the "no-go" zone. Lots of people have ended up going in a circle when trying this for the first time. No matter -- just do it again, and tell the guy with the sprained ankle to stop being a back-seat driver already!
When you have the
headsail over on the new tack and not luffing, lock it off. Now release the
mainsheet and let it move over.
You will probably
have to tweak both sails, but by controlling them one at a time, tacking (or
jybing) can be managed by one person. If you’re gybing instead of tacking, the
steps are the same except that you can move through a jybe more slowly, because
there is no “no-go” zone in a gybe.
If for some reason
you can’t manage the tack, just do a gybe for 270º. You'll come out in the right direction. It isn’t hard. You can do this.
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Source for graphic: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4b/Points_of_sail.svg/300px-Points_of_sail.svg.png&imgrefurl=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Points_of_sail&h=300&w=300&sz=29&tbnid=HRpPHA2QBKhaPM:&tbnh=91&tbnw=91&zoom=1&usg=__0C0bFzDNXCYiMo60T843yNcte04=&docid=B_dastTk9kJ-4M&sa=X&ei=NbeaUZK0NIjo8gT8mYHgCQ&ved=0CEAQ9QEwAg&dur=9913
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